picture from The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou showcasing a Vostok Amphibia 420 dive watch

An Ode to the Dive Watch

Water. Sunshine. Tan lines.

These are key ingredients of the perfect vacation. There’s no greater pleasure than escaping from the overwhelmingness of the world and temporarily transforming into a beach bum. 

So if nirvana involves unplugging & unwinding, why would you want to stay tied to reality through your smartwatch’s never-ending notifications? 

Allow me to share my simple solution: stop taking your smartwatch on vacation (or better yet, get rid of it all together). Instead, turn back the clock by strapping a real watch to your wrist.

There’s something to be said about wearing a piece of art that doesn’t need to be plugged into the wall to work. You don’t have to be a horologist to appreciate the simple beauty of an automatic watch, and developing a watch tan while at the lake or beach is the mark of a time well spent on vacation.

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What is an automatic watch?

Automatic watches don’t require batteries or manual winding to work. Instead, they rely on kinetic motion (aka the movement of your hand throughout the day) to store enough energy to keep the hands ticking. Most dive watches feature automatic movements.

What is a dive watch?

Dive watches are identified by 2 main characteristics: they are waterproof and feature a rotating timing bezel. The timing bezel dates back to the need for scuba divers to track how long their oxygen tanks would last while diving (hence the name). These watches often feature bulky bodies & large markings to make them easier to read while underwater. 

orient dive watch sitting in the sand
My first dive watch: an Orient Mako USA

Dive watches are traditionally worn with more casual strap materials like metal, rubber, or quick-drying fabric.

While many would argue that putting a leather strap on a dive watch is a faux pas, there are ways to make this dysfunctional combination fashionable while wearing it out of the water. You wouldn’t take a leather watch strap on a scuba dive, would you?

The beauty of the dive watch goes beyond the big bezel and the bright lume. Dive watches were made with a specific purpose: to be worn underwater.

There are plenty of dressier or more practical watches that you can wear, but choosing to strap on a dive watch is my way of telling the world that I’m ready to be at the beach.

I wear my dive watch in the pool. I wear it while relaxing at the lake. I wear it while snorkeling in the ocean.

Dive watches are more than timekeeping tools; they are fashion statements.

What can I wear with a dive watch?

While dive watches are most at home on the water, you don’t need to be wearing flip flops or boat shoes to strap one on your wrist. Since dive watches land on the more casual side of the spectrum, they can be worn as an accessory for a range of looks. 

Rubber straps will give your dive watch an athletic vibe. They come in a wide range of colors & styles, so you can use these quick-drying straps to showcase your personality. I reserve rubber straps for more casual outfits: this watch/strap combination reminds me of classic G-Shocks.

Metal straps offer a classic look for true traditionalists. Metal bracelets can be matched with nearly anything, and I wear mine with everything from swim trunks to shirt+blazer outfits. If you only choose one strap for your dive watch, make it an oyster-style metal bracelet.

Fabric NATO & zulu straps compliment dive watches very well. While they do retain water longer than rubber or metal straps after going for a swim, I’ve always found that they dry out very quickly anyways. Thanks to the diverse designs available, these straps are perfect for color-coordinated outfits because they are dressier than rubber straps. 

Examples of Dive Watches in Pop Culture

Dive watches have been prominently featured in pop culture over the years. If you are looking for inspiration, here are a few iconic examples:

James Bond Movie Franchise

James Bond was well-known for his legendary watch collection, but perhaps the most famous (and controversial) watch was this Rolex Submariner ref.6538 featuring a striped nylon strap. 

Confusion over the actual color of his strap’s stripes persisted among movie buffs & watch enthusiasts for years. Many assumed that the strap was two-tone, and black & gray NATO straps became known as the “Bond strap” (the first NATO watch strap I ever bought was one of these).

Today, high-definition versions of the films have confirmed that the strap shown below is actually a much simpler construction than the ubiquitous two-tone strap (which makes sense when you realize the movie predates the creation of NATO) and is actually made of 3 colors

Rolex Submariner with a nylon strap on James Bonds' left wrist.
(image courtesy of hodinkee.com)

The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou

Russian watchmaker Vostok has developed a cult following for producing quirky timepieces that won’t break the bank. The Amphibia dive watch comes in a wide range of case shapes & designs, and its simple-yet-rugged construction means you can buy them for under $100.

Bill Murray’s quirky character in The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou wore a Vostok Amphibia in a 420 case that features nautical elements on the watch face.

(image courtesy of imdb.com)

Apocalypse Now

American soldiers famously preferred Seiko 6105 watches to Army-issued watches. Apocalypse Now, a movie set in the Vietnam War, features Martin Sheen’s character (Captain Willard) wearing this large Seiko dive watch on a black strap.

While Seiko isn’t producing the 6105 watch any longer, they finally released worthy replacements: the SPB153 comes in olive drab while the SPB151 stays true to the original black. 

black & white picture of Charlie Sheen in Army fatigues with a cigarette in one hand & a Seiko 6105 on his left wrist
(image courtesy of imdb.com)

How To Choose The Right Dive Watch

At the end of the day, watches are an extension of your personality. Picking one that looks & feels good to you is more important than getting the most feature-packed option available. Use your personal taste to decide what designs speak to you.

Cutting through the noise is the hardest part. With so many watchmakers out there (ranging from historic houses of horology to blatant knock-offs), it’s difficult to know where to start. I compiled a few recommendations to help you find the perfect dive watch.

Best Dive Watches Under $150

It’s easy to be overwhelmed when shopping for your first dive watch, so I always recommend starting small because there are some great budget-friendly options in this price range.

Casio MDV106 (check price on Amazon)

If you just want to get your feet wet without taking the full plunge into the world of dive watches, this budget-friendly quartz Casio can be found for around $50. 

Orient Ray II (check price on Amazon)

Orient made a name for itself by producing automatic watches at an affordable price point. The Ray II is the perfect entry point for anyone looking for a fully functional dive watch.

Aragon Divemaster II (check price on Amazon)

Aragon is delivering dive watches with the venerable NH35 automatic movement for a fraction of the cost of their competitors. 

Best Dive Watches Under $300

If you want to step up into the next price bracket, you should look for additional features like sapphire crystals, better movements, and better-quality straps/latches.

Orient Kamasu (check price on Amazon)

This was the first automatic dive watch I ever wanted because it ticks every single box & comes in fantastic colors.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPD Dive Watch Series (check price on Amazon)

This is Seiko’s 21st-century version of the legendary SKX007. For those who want to get into automatic watches, there is no better place to start.

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster (check price on Amazon)

If you want a hassle-free watch that doesn’t require winding, look no further than Citizen. Unlike other watches on this list, Citizen’s Eco-Drive system gets its power from solar energy.

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