Hidden beaches. Breathtaking views. World-class diving. All of this and more is what you can expect from a trip to the tiny island of Bonaire nestled just north of Venezuela.
Never heard of Bonaire? You’re not alone. Best known for having over 80 dive sites, scuba divers & snorkelers flock to this island paradise for the best shore diving in the Caribbean. However, Bonaire’s appeal has remained relatively limited to divers and boatloads of European cruisers.
Of course, Bonaire has more to offer than just diving. Washington Salaabi National Park features cliff jumping, mountain biking, and hiking on the north side of the island. The nearby Gotomeer is where you can see flamingos in their wild habitat. Not far from there is the 16th-century town of Rincon which is home to plenty of historic buildings. Plus, a relaxing beach is never far away no matter where you are on the island.
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How to get to BON from the United States
Although Bonaire isn’t as heavily trafficked as nearby Aruba or Curaçao, Flamingo International Airport is served by airlines from around the globe.
Pre-COVID, all three major US airlines had regularly scheduled service to BON: American (MIA), Delta (ATL), and United (IAH & EWR). I flew into BON for a 3-day weekend trip using my non-rev flight benefits.
As of January 2021, American Airlines is the only airline that still has service to the island. As the world’s COVID response continues to evolve into 2021, keep an eye on BON’s website for additional details.
Where should I stay in Bonaire?
Finding lodging in the main town of Kralendijk is the best way to stay near the best that Bonaire has to offer. Bonaire does not have many major hotel chain options on the island, so we used the ID90 Travel app to book our stay. If you have never used ID90 Travel to take advantage of travel industry rates before, you can use our referral link to get $10 off your first hotel booking.
The island of Bonaire is small enough to explore no matter where you end up staying. Driving from the northernmost point of the island (Washington-Salaabi National Park) to the southernmost dive location (Willemstoren Lighthouse) takes about an hour. Lodging on the west side of the island puts you close to the action, and staying a mile or two north of the airport will put you within walking distance of most bars & restaurants.
If you prefer being within walking distance to some of Bonaire’s most popular beaches & diving locations, staying just south of the airport puts you near spots like Te Amo Beach & Bachelor’s Beach.
I stayed right across the street from the water at Bonaire Seaside Apartments on Boulevard Gobernador Nicolaas Debrot. This location was perfect for us because it was a short walk to the center of Kralendijk and was right around the corner from the dive shop that we rented gear from.
Best places to eat in Bonaire
Once you have worked up an appetite, you can wander around Kralendijk in search of a meal or set out on an adventure to sample Bonaire’s burgeoning food truck scene. Here are some places that we recommend:
Cactus Blue
Cactus Blue is a well-regarded mobile dining option on the island. You can find Tham and her food trailer parked near Donkey Beach just south of the airport.
The menu features freshly cooked burgers & wraps, but the real star here is the lionfish burger. Lionfish is an invasive species in the Carribean, so local divers are encouraged to hunt these fish to help cull their population. So what do we do with these apex predators? Bonaire’s creative culinary geniuses have found a way to turn this spiny predator into a delicious meal, so you can rest assured that every lionfish burger you order is helping to protect the local reefs.
Pasa Bon Pizza & Bar
Would you prefer to have your first lionfish experience served to you in pizza form instead? Head on down to Pasa Bon Pizza & Bar and order up their lionfish pizza (or one of their more conventional pies).
It’s a casual, laid-back spot with a no-frills dining room; they also offer a delivery service if that’s more your speed.
Kite City
Kite City’s food truck can be found parked near the shore of Te Amo Beach just at the end of BON airport’s runway.
They are famous for serving up fresh tuna from their legendary food truck, but don’t forget to keep an eye on their catch-of-the-day offerings. The barracuda burger I ate here on my last day on the island was to die for!
La Cantina Cerveceria
If you are looking for a restaurant to enjoy a sit-down dinner on the island, La Cantina Cerveceria served one of my favorite meals. The open-air patio is illuminated with string lights and comes alive with a buzz of energy as the dining room fills up.
I hand-picked my dinner from the “fish market” they have set up in a corner of the patio, and the service was absolutely exceptional the night we visited.
Things to do in Bonaire
Diving in Bonaire
Most visitors to Bonaire expect to snorkel or scuba at least once while on the island. There are a few things to know about diving in Bonaire:
- Buy a STINAPA tag online or at a dive shop: Bonaire’s entire coastline is a protected National Marine Park managed by STINAPA, a non-profit foundation in charge of conserving Bonaire’s protected parks. STINAPA tags ($45 for admittance to the Marine Park & Washington Park, or $25 for snorkeling-only) help fund conservation efforts and are required to dive on the island.
- Open-heel fins are recommended: many of Bonaire’s dive sites can be accessed from the shore, but not every dive spot has a sandy beach entrance. Instead, many dive sites require walking on rocky surfaces. Wearing dive booties coupled with open-heel fins means you won’t need to risk cutting your foot as you walk to the dive site.
- Dive sites are marked by painted yellow rocks: Since you will be finding your own dive spots, you better know how to find them! Bonaire makes this easy by placing painted yellow rocks visible from the main road to identify each dive site. If you see a yellow rock, pull over and jump in!
My favorite snorkel spots were 1000 Steps (I saw a handful of sea turtles here) and Alice In Wonderland (first time I saw a soon-to-be-lunch lionfish in the wild).
Spend an afternoon at Klein Bonaire
A $20 roundtrip water taxi ticket will buy you a trip to the uninhabited island that sits just west of Kralendijk. Klein Bonaire features a wide open sandy beach away from civilization if you just want to drift away with your thoughts under the sun.
Speaking of drifting, Klein Bonaire offers a unique opportunity to drift snorkel along its coast. If you have never been drift snorkeling, you can imagine it as a lazy river-like experience along a coral reef: you simply allow yourself to float along the island’s reef as the current slowly brings you back to the beach.
There are two ways to start drift snorkeling: you can either let your water taxi operator know to drop you off at the designated dive spot, or you can take a short hike from the beach and jump in on your own schedule.
Explore Washington Salaabi National Park
If you want to go hiking or mountain biking while on the island, Take a day trip to Washington Salaabi National Park to experience a rugged landscape on the north side of Bonaire. This national park is also managed by STINAPA, so buying a full-price $45 STINAPA tag (which is good for a calendar year) is required for access.
The park features three hiking trails including a route to the island’s highest point. The coastline has multiple beaches and even an area for cliff diving.
Visit the flamingos at Gotomeer
While on the north side of the island, make a pit stop to Gotomeer for a chance to see flamingos in their natural habitat. Visiting in the first half of the year gives you the best chance of seeing these magnificent birds nesting or pruning their young.
Taste island-inspired spirits at Cadushy Distillery
As you pass through the old town of Rincon and admire the colonial architecture, consider visiting Cadushy Distillery to enjoy spirits inspired by nearby Caribbean islands while being charmed by local wildlife.
Sample locally brewed beer at Brewery Bonaire
If you enjoy drinking beer as much as I do, I am sure you will find yourself enjoying Brewery Bonaire beer multiple times during your visit to the island. If you want to check out the people behind the label, you can saunter into their taproom (which is conveniently attached to La Cantina Cerveceria) to sample their beers.
Bonaire Blond is their most popular beer on the island and it offers a substantial step up from your typical “island beer”, but they have many beers to choose from at the tap room.
Final Thoughts
With so much to explore, Bonaire is an oft-overlooked paradise that adventure seekers simply cannot afford to miss. I ended up renting a scooter from Scooter Bonaire to transport us between dive spots & points of interest on the island.
Have you visited Bonaire? Let us know your favorite spots on the island in the comments below!
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